"Greatest 24h door-to-door day hike ever" Alta Peak Trip Report, Sequoia National Park, CA January 30th - February 1st, 2004 Greg Walker & Andrew Yue This winter I knew I had to get back out to Cali where this summer I grew to love the Sierra Range visiting both Yosemite and Sequoia. Knowing that Greg would never truly organize a trip, I hoped an opportunity would come. So it did when Raytheon invited me to interview with them the last weekend in January. My original intention was to visit Yosemite. Greg mentioned XC skiing at Montecedo in Sequoia or hiking Alta. Surfing Greg's summer Alta pics and a backcountry ski site revealed Alta's coolness and thus our journey began. The trip began about 2:20am on Saturday. We hustled out of LA hitting the park's entrance around 7:00am. Winding up the General's Highway up towards Lodgepole visibility dropped as clouds, fog, and rain engulfed us around 2500'. Soon enough, it turned to snow and the chains went on. Greg confidently boasted that even though he'd never installed the chains before, he was sure it was "easy". Around 6000' we found close to several feet of snow. We played around at the Sherman tree then hit off to the Wolverton trailhead [7280']. Starting exactly at 8:00am (after some pork buns) we barebooted on the hardpacked/icy trail. No more than half a mile in, we decided on crampons as the trail was slick (crampons #1). Another half-mile later Greg announced he was post-holing and thus changed in snowshoes near a huge fallen tree. Views through the woods revealed blue skies and the snow-covered peaks of the Sierra Range. The trees surrounding us were covered with light green moss/lichen perfectly contrasting the darker pine needles and Sierra background. No more than a few hundred yards down the trail, we hit a large frozen cascade of streams. Since the snow was becoming deep I put my snowshoes on (snowshoes #1). Making it up to Panther Gap [8500'] was difficult, as the trail was all but impossible to follow as we repeatedly lost the single set of boot tracks. Soon we made it to the gap, only to be greeted by a wall of clouds dumping a light snow on the southern side. Our views of the Kaweah Canyon were nonexistent as visibility was only about 50m. As the path fell off the ridge and traced the southern slope, the exposure grew to hundreds of feet (at least that's all we could see). The trail became dangerously icy and after passing the lone hiker (who turned back because she lacked crampons), we decided to switch back to crampons for safety (crampons #2). Safely passing the exposed section of trail, we again hit the woods to deep snow and decided to go back to snowshoes as postholing became tiresome (snowshoes #2). Minutes later, still under the clouds and snow, we reached Mehrten Meadow [9040'] for a quick break. Pass the meadow, we kept losing the regaining the trail in the woods. Confident in our topo/compass skills we plodded along (Greg cheated with his "gips" [GPS] and Asian-made altimeter) to reach an opening revealing the shortest route (as the crow flies) up a basin to Alta Peak. Realizing it was near noon already we decided on this shorter route. With visibility still less than 100m, we started up the slope that grew increasingly steep. Trudging along in our snowshoes, we couldn't see how far up the slope went as we lost sight of what we covered. For the next 2.5 hours we climbed as the slope slowly became increasingly concave laterally. We switched to crampons as the slope became more and more steep (crampons #3). Greg already was using his axe as support, and I finally traded my trekking poles for the axe as the slope became dangerously steep around 45 degees [10,200']. In addition, as we climbed the clouds that were being pushed up the slope on our backs thinned revealing a very intense (and warmly received - pun intended) sun. Thus, the thick corn snow and softer underpack (we were not in avalanche danger we assessed) and our crampons began to ball up every few steps. We were impressed at a sometimes visible rock formation on our left that very similarly resembled a smaller El Capitan. We reached a small shelf at 10,600' to reveal what looked like a mini "Tuckerman's Ravine." After breaking for food and water in complete and total silence (aka peaceful serenity), we headed up the "ravine" and followed the safest looking (e.g. from avalanche danger, though we heard rocks falling, hmmmm...) route up what we called the "left gully". Greg lead and was first up to the lip [11,000']. Our first views of the Sierra's were amazing as the moon shone in the super-blue sky and the breaking clouds revealed glimpses of the canyon to our back and Tharp's Rock immediately to our southwest. I pushed pass Greg who was toying around with his camera and headed up to the final 240' to the summit. Not until I was about 10 feet from the summit rock did the views of the entire Sierra range come into view. I was breathless as I was amazed at my first real sight of the range in the winter. Snow and ice covered slopes were everywhere, with the uber-cool effect of clouds hiding the lower peaks and most of the peaks to the south-southeast (Kaweah Peaks). Whitney and the southeast portion of the Great Western Divide were still cloud-hidden as well. It was close to 4:00pm, some 8 hours after our start. We took a bunch of pictures and climbed up the 30' summit rock. Using some mixed rock/ice moves, Greg dared me to climb the top rock and sit at the edge of a 2000' drop. The register was buried in about 4 feet of snow and there was not a snowball's chance in hell I was going to dig around on the 2' ledge that hid the box. We took some more pictures (see the footsteps pics) and headed down off the summit rock to layer up and begin our plunge-step descent of the "ravine". Donning shells from head to toe, we began our journey home "into the clouds". Heading down proved relatively easy as the snow was soft and our crampons sliced easily through the surface. Near the base of the ravine, we tried to practice self-arrest but the snow by now was so soft that we wouldn't slide. Finally, we reached the shelf around 5:00pm. As we took our final break, the clouds amazing began to break revealing the Kaweah Peaks where just beyond the Mineral King Area lay. The clouds seemed to magically disappear at a very fast rate revealing the ravine we just travelled, Tharp's Rock, and the psuedo "El Cap." Greg smartly suggested we wait the next 20 minutes to watch an "sweet" sunset and I wholeheartedly agreed. It was one of the most beautiful sunset's I have witnessed. The sun fell under cloud cover probably around 6000' hiding all but the highest peaks (a true Kodak moment). Snapping the very last pictures my batteries would give, I quickly began down again (after changing back to snowshoes - snowshoes #3). I would have dawdled longer but I was getting cold and sick. We both raced down donning headlamps with Greg getting a few last silhouette pics in. Finally reaching the woods [10,100'] and trampled along agreeing to the importance of staying close together in the dark. Thankful of our tracks from the morning, we made good time (though it seemed like forever) to break at the meadow junction (3.7 mi from Wolverton) and switch back to crampons for the exposed ridge section (crampons #4). This time, however, the Kaweah Canyon and peaks were in full sight under the 3/4- to-full moon and brightly shining stars. We stopped several times to fully immerse ourselves in the beauty of the mountains and nature. After reaching the gap, we made our final change back into snowshoes (snowshoes #4). We left the gap (and breath-taking "midnight" views) and headed down. What seemed like eternity elapsed until we reached the Pear Lake junction. Twice that elapsed before we reached the trailhead. I was partially dehydrated, cold, sick with a hacking "altitude cough", and mildly hallucinating when I reached the Golfy-golf. But I was ecstatic at the trip we had just completed. It was now exactly 8:00pm, 12 hours had transpired since we left. We drove off alternating the captain seat as the other crashed hard in the passenger spot. With only the loss of one set of chains, we made it back to Greg's Rochester Ave apartment shortly after 2:00am thus concluding the "greatest 24h door-to-door day hike ever." Trip Stats: Length: 14 miles Elevation (gain and loss): 3960' Max Elevation: 11,240' (Alta Peak) Animals spotted: Small cougar and coyote